Lighthouse life from the inside. For those who are thinking of becoming a lighthouse

(autotranslated, could have mistakes)

Many people are interested in what it is like to live in a lighthouse. Let us give the story of a lighthouse family from the Kurbatov lighthouse on Shumshuy Island in the Kuril Islands. The Head of the Lighthouse, Elena Barbasheva, kindly answered the questions of the Virtual Museum of Lighthouses of the World:

My husband and I work at the lighthouse of Cape Kurbatov in the first Kuril Strait on Shumshu Island. There are two lighthouses on the island - ours “Kurbatova”, and on the other end of the island in the second Kuril Strait “Chibuiny”. There are a total of 6 people on the island.

Our lighthouses are people who are already well over 40 (mostly) and are not on short terms with the Internet. There is no Internet at the lighthouses; even cellular communications are not available at all lighthouses. At our lighthouse there is only a long-wave radio station, through which we contact control twice a day to report the hydrometeorological report and say that everything is fine with us or there are problems. Our Hydrography Department is located in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. I will describe our life in more detail.

How to get a job at a lighthouse?

About the device for beacons. In Kamchatka, people are needed for lighthouses. But not everyone can withstand more than 1 year, or even one season. Difficult living conditions, difficult climatic conditions (dampness, fog, stormy winds, cold - summer lasts two months). Expeditionary delivery only for navigation purposes. Twice - in June and October.  All our lighthouses are military units. We are civilian personnel in a military unit. Our superiors are military sailors. Division by position depending on the class of the lighthouse. For example, our lighthouse is class 2. According to the latest staffing schedule, the lighthouse must have a lighthouse manager, a lighthouse mechanic and a lighthouse technician. Only 3 people.

Requirement: the lighthouse manager and mechanic must have a technical education. It is desirable that not only education, but also a person could actually disassemble and assemble a diesel engine, gas turbine engine, or snowmobile. Otherwise you won't survive. In addition to beacons, there are also radio navigation tracking stations - RNS. People are also needed there and the conditions are exactly the same.  To get a job, Kamchatka registration at the place of residence is required; a person applying for a job passes a medical commission and a document on education.

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About the salaries of lighthouse keepers and lighthousemen

I’ll say right away that our salaries are small. The salary of a technician without a category is 22,000 rubles. Mechanics - about 40,000 rubles. In general, working at a lighthouse is more of a way of life. The selfish and mercantile don’t last.

About the state of lighthouses

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Unfortunately, many lighthouses really look deplorable. And especially the Kuril lighthouses. The remoteness has an effect, and of course the climatic conditions. The salty fog with the wind eats metal literally before our eyes. In general, I want to say that a lot depends on the people working at this facility. When we arrived in 2006, the Kurbatov lighthouse looked no better than all the others, if not worse.

There was no equipment, there was no radio station (they went down to the outpost to communicate, but now the outpost has been removed), living conditions were simply terrible - I won’t go into details. The head of the lighthouse was a retired naval officer - greedy, cowardly and a drinker.

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We started by burning garbage, which for some reason littered the entire lighthouse town. And to this day we are trying to put everything in order as best we can. It must be said that not everyone approves of us. Some are skeptical, others openly laugh at us. We don't pay attention. It’s just a shame that there are such lighthouses in Russia.

Let's break through!

My husband is a merchant seaman - he worked at the Black Sea Shipping Company. Traveled to more than 30 countries. Such dilapidated lighthouses exist only in Russia.

In 2007, I came to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and wrote a letter to the Main Directorate of Scientific Research of the Ocean and Hydrography to Admiral Komaritsin in St. Petersburg. After this letter, my superiors strongly disliked me, but positive dynamics towards some changes emerged.

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In 2008, we already had a new good radio station. They brought paint to repair the tower. The old lighthouse chief was sent into retirement with honors. There were many more memos and reports - in general, a lot of hammering, and everything was in writing. Now we have already installed plastic frames in the house (the old frames were squeezed out every time by cyclones), and my husband and I installed local heating throughout the entire residential building from a Korean automatic boiler (powered by diesel fuel). We installed satellite television (we lived without a TV for three years), we are thinking about installing two-way Internet. We try to keep the lighthouse in good condition to the best of our ability. There are still a lot of problems. We are working. And by the way, for the fact that the two of us put the lighthouse in order - glazed, repaired and painted, our bosses didn’t say thank you to us. But we are not offended. But now neither I, as the head of the lighthouse - yes, I am the only woman head of the lighthouse - nor my husband are ashamed of our lighthouse.

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Tourism on the island

Tourists come to us every summer. They arrive on foot - they cross from Severo-Kurilsk. They come in kayaks. Irkutsk guys came on a catamaran. They even sailed on inflatable bananas connected to each other. People from all over Russia. There are a lot of Muscovites.

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People often ask how to contact the lighthouse by radio, is there a call sign, and is it possible for civilian radio amateurs to contact you?

Civilian radio amateurs are not allowed to contact us. There is some secrecy here. Even names and positions when transmitting radiograms are transmitted in encrypted form. Each lighthouse and hydrographic vessel has its own call sign. We talk to passing ships on short waves without any call signs - the name of the lighthouse is as indicated on the navigator's chart.  Not all lighthouses have a shortwave station. On ours it is, and is constantly on on international maritime channel 16.

How to write a letter to a lighthouse?

You cannot write a letter to the lighthouse. There is no postal delivery. The nearest post office to us is Severo-Kurilsk.  In the past, letters to lighthouse workers arrived in Severo-Kurilsk, addressed to the lighthouses "Kurbatovo" and "Chibuiny", friends were asked to pick up the mail and, when transported across the 2nd Kuril Strait, they were transferred to the lighthouses.

Why did you decide to become a lighthouse keeper?

The desire to work at the lighthouse arose long before we arrived at the lighthouse. After all, we have a port city. There are lighthouses within the city (Front Avachinsky, Back Avachinsky), outside the city the Petropavlovsky lighthouse (the oldest lighthouse) and the Stanitsky lighthouse - they stand at the entrance gate to Avachinsky Bay.

Previously, when our city was a closed border zone, everyone was somehow connected with the sea, fish, the fleet, and everything that ensures the operation of the fleet. Therefore, lighthouses are taken for granted. My father is a sea captain. Worked at the Kamchatka Shipping Company.

As a girl, I often visited him on the ships on which he worked. Vladimir is my husband, as I already said, a sailor. He worked as a boatswain, a mechanic on ships of the ChMP, KMP and even worked on Greek ships in international crews. In general, we know a lot about lighthouses, but this is what lighthouses in Russia look like

In fact, and how work is organized for them, we encountered when we arrived to work at the lighthouse.

As they say, God himself told us to get a job at the lighthouse. I am a lawyer by education. She worked in the judicial system for about 12 years. In 2006, Vladimir was laid off, and my circumstances were such that I was forced to quit my job. We started looking for a new job. For three months nothing acceptable could be found. In small towns, finding a job is problematic, especially if you are over 40. It was a very difficult period in your life back then. Total lack of money. Debts for utilities. Housing issue, etc. etc. I was so tired of everything then that I didn’t want to see and hear everything that was around me. Once, having come to the shore of the bay, I prayed to get to a desert island, and none of my relatives

see and live in peace and quiet. I didn’t know then that our Universe takes everything literally, including prayers and requests.

And the brilliant idea came to my mind that I needed to get a job at the lighthouse. I don’t know whether this is a coincidence or the providence of God, but when my husband and I once again came to the employment center, I saw an advertisement that the military unit was recruiting people to work in remote locations at lighthouses.

The salary at that time was 6-8 thousand rubles. I didn’t even pay attention to the amount of wages then. The next day, my husband and I already talked with the head of the Lighthouse Service Department. We had one problem - our marriage was not registered. There was time left

It's not far from the ship. The head of the department wrote us a petition to register us. In May, in heavy rain with snow and wind, Vladimir and I received the coveted marriage certificate. There was no money to celebrate this event. The next day we registered for work. There were some difficulties with Vladimir’s medical examination, but ultimately everything was settled and we were preparing to depart. I remember then that the depression lifted from me and there was some kind of enthusiasm. It was as if I saw a light. Volodya, in silent readiness for anything, packed things, tools, and everything that we could need.

fit. We also took with us a duralumin boat and a motor.

In the end, GISU "North" headed for Cape Lopatka with supplies and lighthouses. After unloading at the Krugly lighthouse (eastern coast of Kamchatka), at the Lopatka lighthouse (southern Kamchatka), we approached the Shumshu island. The lighthouse was not visible. Fog. Visibility up to 50 m.

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Unloading onto the surf strip. Then the cargo needs to be brought up to the lighthouse and lighthouse town. At that time there was still a post with 12 border guards. They helped us. When we went up to the lighthouse, my husband said quietly in my ear: “I’m lazy, let’s leave while the ship is still

didn't leave." This was his first impression of what he saw. Then I realized that my prayers were heard, the island is uninhabited. There are two lighthouses and an outpost on the entire island.

Arrangement

We started to settle in. A residential house without sewerage, without running water, without ventilation. The toilet is outside. There is no bathhouse. The roof is leaking. But that was not all. On the first night, I woke up from some kind of creaking and crashing from the other side of the front door. Waking up my husband, it turned out that rats were gnawing the entrance

door, and a decent hole has already formed. Armed with a stool, my husband chased rats all night, and they weren’t particularly afraid of him, and I sat cross-legged on the sofa in quiet horror. The next day it turned out that the head of the lighthouse was storing flour in an empty apartment in the house and there were countless rats there. I later understood why the lighthouse chief’s wife wore boots at home. We then equipped an empty tank for bulk grains and flour, so that rats would not get in. We got cats. We have eight of them now. Kurilian Bobtails. That's what they're called. With short tails.

With the onset of autumn, it became clear that the stoves in apartments were not designed to heat the room. These are kitchen fireplaces for cooking. They need to pour coal on top. At the same time, soot and soot flies throughout the apartment. When a cyclone passes, there is no point in heating them at all - all the heat flies into the chimney. It was necessary to do something with basic amenities - somehow you need to wash yourself, do laundry. We built a mini-bath, adapted a temporary toilet, and ran a water supply from the well into the house using scrap materials (fortunately there was a submersible pump at the lighthouse). But it was still very difficult in the first year. Cold. The only food items are canned food, cereals, and flour. It’s good that we took old furniture and household appliances with us. Otherwise there would be nothing to sleep on, sit on, etc. And since Volodya has golden hands, the housing gradually took on the appearance of housing.

2007 With the onset of spring, I began to look for where I could plant a vegetable garden. In May there is no snow on the poppy, but the average temperature throughout May and June is about -5 -6 degrees. I still found an old vegetable garden, only it was littered with some kind of garbage, rotten boards, rubbish, just like the entire territory of the lighthouse. They dug it up. Now we grow vegetables (radishes, turnips, loba), although they only appear in August, but it’s still a joy. I’m thinking of installing a greenhouse this year, if we have time.

Female Lighthouse Chief

In the summer of 2007, the old head of the lighthouse and his wife went on vacation, followed by retirement. I must say that I didn’t part with them very well. At parting, I told them everything that had accumulated in my soul during the year, even though Volodya tried to stop me. But otherwise I wouldn’t be me. But I still don’t regret it at all. And now we were left alone. Volodya took over the work and responsibilities. But since there were only two of us left, we divided the work. I work with documentation and reporting. Volodya with diesel engines.

Diesel is sacred!

The topic of diesel engines - the heart of every lighthouse - is a separate and most painful topic. If at least some building materials can still be knocked out, then diesel is on its last legs. Our diesel engine has already served 9 engine resources. Diesel engines of this modification are no longer produced. You have to look for spare parts everywhere, ship repair shops, etc. We buy spare parts with our own money. And not only our lighthouse - everything. Being left without electricity in winter is the end. Diesel is sacred. You can't even talk bad about him. I’m now trying to get a new diesel engine, but they said that not only will we not get diesel, but they won’t even bring us new batteries. There is no funding. I can't understand how there is no funding. At least there are lighthouse fees.

That's how we worked together. Gradually restoring, clearing, repairing together. We bought a circular. Lots of other tools. The lighthouse was glazed. They could not solve the problem of cold and dampness in the house. We slept in sleeping bags. When we got our first snowmobile, the communication issue was resolved

from North Kurilsk. Volodya rode a snowmobile to the other side of the island. He was transported to Paramushir, and could bring from there the necessary products or something else. At this time I was alone. Once it happened that my husband could not cross the strait back for 2 weeks, Cyclone after cyclone.

I had to stop the diesel engine during the day and sleep, and in the evening start it up again and keep watch. I was worried that the antenna would break and there would be no connection. But there was so much joy when he arrived. He was very worried about how I would cope alone. But everything worked out.

Does nature have bad weather?

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Cyclones are especially strong in November and February-March. In 2009, we bought a new Japanese motor for the boat, my husband installed it, and rolled the boat onto a cart. The hurricane began - the end of October. Wind force - 50 m/s. We didn't calculate the wind direction. In general, before his eyes, the boat was lifted into the air, turned over 2 times and crashed against the rocks with a brand new engine.... I soldered my husband with alcohol. The most amazing thing is that he then assembled it and filled the body with epoxy resin. Now we fly on it to Severo-Kurilsk in the summer.

Now we already have a second (my) snowmobile. Jeep. Problems such as delivering anything from Severo-Kurilsk have been resolved. If only the weather would allow it.

Lighthouse assistants. Three lighthouses and a dog.

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During our work, three technicians were hired at our lighthouse - they worked for 2 months and left. One thing was not satisfied with our harsh climate. One did not want to work because of the huge amount of work and low salary. One ran away without explanation. After a large reduction in staff, I was approved as the boss, and Volodya as a mechanic. Just last year a man came to us who was not afraid of the climate or work. Until last year we were alone. We took turns going on vacation.

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True, this can hardly be called a vacation. Let’s do the backlog of things and return by helicopter via Severo-Kurilsk. Now is the first time I'm really on vacation. At the end of June the ship. We return to the lighthouse.

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Regarding travelers - no problems, despite the military status. Everyone who came to us lived with us, wandered around the island, photographed Japanese tanks and guns, and climbed bunkers. Last year, due to the influx of tourists, we even made a hotel - a small apartment with 3 beds, a kitchen and a bathroom.

About living creatures

The living creatures near lighthouses are different everywhere. We have mostly foxes. Now reindeer have been brought to the island, but their shooting is strictly prohibited; game wardens come to count the livestock. There are sea otters - in the red book. There are no trees on our island. Tundra, lots of flowers and porcini mushrooms and completely worm-free.

Let's support the lighthouses!

I would really like to help this interesting and heroic family, about life, which few people knew, like most lighthouses. We are used to admiring beautiful photos of lighthouses, but lighthouse keepers almost always remain invisible to us, and their hard work to ensure the safety of navigation in difficult conditions is usually hardly noticeable to anyone.

We really want to support this family and publish electronic wallets belonging to Elena and Vladimir. Support the lighthouses WEB MONEY - wallet R288342263483, and RBK MONEY - wallet RU610548822.

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